Few things are as satisfying as those that require us to slow down and take our time! Think back to your first kiss…that first glance, the waiting and wondering, more eye contact before you begin talking, casually at first… then talking endlessly in every free moment. Next perhaps you’re holding hands and talking more. Eventually a moment arrives in quiet embrace and just before your lips touch, you catch your breath! (Savor this moment!) Then BOOM! Fireworks explode as time stands still and you wish the moment would never end. Slowing cooking pork can be like the build up to your first kiss; only the dinner and lunchtime sandwiches really last longer.
I prefer a picnic shoulder over a Boston butt cut. Yeah, both are technically shoulder meat. The store-bought Boston butt (in this area) is over-trimmed leaving too little fat. Consequently, the absence of fat doesn’t allow the meat to maintain the sweet, moistness that should be in every bite of a pulled pork sandwich. Another way of putting this is, you shouldn’t have to add bbq sauce to dry pulled pork just to eat the sandwich.
When I am planning to slow cook pork, I start by making my rub – paprika, chili powder, sugar, brown sugar, salt, cumin, and coriander. (See “How to Cook Meat” by Chris Schlesinger and John (Doc) Willoughby for the St Louis Dry rub recipe). The ingredients fill a pint size Ball jar when they’re combined. The day before s l o w cooking, I rub the shoulder with the dry rub and refrigerate over night. In the meantime, I head out to my local microbrewery to pickup a couple of growlers of beer. At 5am the next morning, when the coals are ready, a handful of
hickory is thrown into the firebox; smoke fills the chamber. Keeping the fire and smoke going requires patience and a little brew for the next 10 hours. And, 10 hours is enough time to make coleslaw and green beans. I know my job is complete when the meat pulls easily from the bone with a fork. As the pork is finishing, wrap sweet corn in foil with butter, crushed garlic, salt and pepper. Toss the wrapped corn into the smoker near the firebox opening.
Your mouth will begin watering as you fill your plate. When take your first bite (savor this moment), BOOM! Fireworks explode as time stands still and you wish the moment would never end…
The dirty details… the fire is not magic; it needs tending! The coals keep the heat going. I always use Kingsford because they burn the most consistently (ie. heat and time). I’ve tried other and “natural” charcoals but most are too light, burn too hot and too fast. The overall goal is to keep the fire hot enough to create smoke with the wood while not allowing the wood to burn! The target temp. is between 200 and 275 degrees. The smoke comes from 3 or 4 chunks of hickory added about every hour and a half. (I don’t use the wood flakes whose instructions say soak in water for 30 minutes. Hickory ($) creates the traditional flavor the thought of bbq invokes. Mesquite wood ($) adds a slightly salty flavor, especially appropriate for Mexican/Spanish style dishes. Apple wood ($$) cooked meat when combined with ketchup makes a flavor like a rich, tomato based bbq sauce! It’s so good it’s absolutely insane.) The smoker chimney is adjusted between one-eighth to one-quarter open, essentially holding back the accumulated smoke and choking out any flames. The intake (the opening at the firebox) is alternated between halfway and one-third open. This opening depends on new coals being added and the need to get or keep them hot (keep in mind the target temp). Over time, the flavors of the seasons along with the smoke and heat will create that savor the moment flavor!
I am available for catering on this type of cooking… the rate includes research time to locate local organic farmers and round trip airfare… business/first class for me and my sous chef!